2001 - Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien

There is a subtlety to this that strikes you immediately - gentle smoke, cold ash, tobacco, white truffle, brambled blackberry fruits, mint leaf, totally sublime, my favourite of the line up so far. It plays to the strengths of St Julien, and plays with nuanced light-and-shade in a way that the 2000 does not at this point. This is a high score for Gruaud Larose, and reflects the heights that this vintage is reaching right now - tracking how long it stays at this level is part of the beauty of wine. I tasted two versions, one decanted and one not - the smokey side is more evident in the carafe, but I preferred allowing it to open more slowly in the glass. Harvest September 21 to October 4, 35% new oak.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color, the 2001 Gruaud Larose soars out of the glass with impressive notes of dried cherries, cranberry preserves, and rose oil followed by wafts of unsmoked cigars, new leather, powdered cinnamon, and tilled soil. The light to medium-bodied palate is lively and light on its feet, with vibrant red berry preserves and earthy layers and a soft texture, finishing with great length and energy.

The 2001 Gruaud Larose is clearly fresher and cleaner on the nose than the preceding vintage, with blackberry, dark chocolate and light loamy scents. With aeration, there is just a touch of wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little square-jawed for a Gruaud, maybe just missing a little depth and concentration on the finish. That said, on reflection, this has more precision than the millennial vintage, with a dab of soy lending intrigue to the aftertaste. Tasted at the Gruaud Larose vertical at the château in February 2023.