2014 - Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Donnhoff

“Normally, this should have been a year of TBA, BA and Auslese without end,” related Dönnhoff senior, “if only the weather had turned at the beginning of October and brought strictly cool, dry air.” In the event, just this one small bit of Auslese was possible by dint of rigorous selection. “I didn’t want Auslese to completely elude my grasp,” Dönnhoff continued, noting that “this one was picked out from the Spätlese material on a table by my top harvest brigade. We’ve had lovelier Auslesen, but when it’s constantly humid, you get negative infection and can’t expect more than this.” A faintly fungal note accents apple jelly, glazed pineapple, candied grapefruit rind and caramel on the nose, leading to a colorfully complex but rather opaque as well as decidedly confectionery palate impression. The finish is forcefully sustained but lacks the primary juiciness and salinity that might have leavened the wine’s sheer thickness and overcome slightly rough and unruly manifestations of botrytis. “The Brücke Auslese would probably have been better than this if only those grapes hadn’t gone kaput on us,” quipped Dönnhoff.