2008 - Clos Nardian Teyssier

(40% semillon, 40% sauvignon blanc and 20% muscadelle) Bright golden yellow. Lovely, almost viognier-like nose offers ripe aromas of peach, apricot, candied ginger and tropical fruits. Rich and opulent, with an almost oily texture to its flavors of candied pineapple, pear, guava and beeswax. Finishes creamy and very long. A knockout white vin de garage from a clay-over-limestone vineyard in Saint Aubin de Branne (just south of Saint-Emilion), made in very small quantities. The crop is pruned to three bunches to the vine, and the must from the old-vine muscadelle (planted in 1935!) is put through reverse osmosis to increase its alcoholic degree-but proprietor Jonathan Maltus tells me he really likes it because of the musky, aromatic character it contributes to the wine.