2010 - Cabernet Sauvignon, Spottswoode, St. Helena

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, from a cooler vintage, has 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot in the blend. Medium to deep garnet-brick in color, it comes out swinging with notes of warm cassis, sauteed herbs, and kirsch on the nose, leading to hints of charcuterie, wet slate, and tobacco. The medium-bodied palate has an impressive structure of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness with tightly wound black fruit and savory layers, finishing long and minerally. 2,586 cases were made.

Mature now, yet seemingly capable of continuing on in this vein for at least another decade, Spottswoode's 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrific example of the sort of wine this picture-book estate can turn out. Always stylish and elegant, with terrific integration of fruit and oak, this vintage is lightening in color a bit, but it's so complete, offering complex aromas of cedar and vanilla that have indelibly melded with the black cherries, cassis and loam notes characteristic of the property. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it finishes long, with softly dusty tannins that will serve it well at the table the next time you can find a worthy piece of lamb or beef.

Good bright ruby. Huckleberry, blackberry, violet and licorice on the scented nose; became increasingly floral with air--a real essence of its St. Helena site. Enters the mouth suave, silky and floral; wonderfully pliant in spite of its acid-driven energy, precision and youthfulness. The wine's perfume and definition pique the taste buds in the middle palate and on the very long, rising finish, where the noble tannins play a supporting role without impinging. This wonderfully youthful, floral wine appears to be at the beginning of a long plane of peak drinkability. Really fills the mouth with perfume, but not at all weighty or overly fleshy. Finishes with great sappy, rising length and grip. My sample was even better after 72 hours.