2005 - Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles, Domaine de Montille

De Montille’s 2005 Pommard Pezerolles displays hints of herbs and flowers, then pungent cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, metal shavings and crushed stone. Ripe spiced raspberry and cassis with soy-like savor make for an expansive rich display on the palate, where fine tannins are appropriately reined-in. This finishes with real thrust, and intense spice and mineral adjuncts to its ripe fruit. Rather than the clarity and elegance of the Grands Epenots, one gets a more opaque sense of richness here and a more obvious sense of density. This appellation – representing one of, if not the largest surface area of the estate – has been on a roll of late, and that is not by accident. De Montille reasserted control in 1999 over management of the vines and has been working to bring out a quality potential that need not take a back seat to Grands Epenots or Rugiens. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The 2005 Pommard Les Pezerolles 1er Cru has a very intense, quite curmudgeonly bouquet that shows a touch of reduction that frustratingly only shifts in the final glass. Dark berry fruit, hints of cinnamon and undergrowth begin to emerge, quite broody for the first two hours and only lightening up at the final dregs! The palate is tannic and structured, grippy and assertive, shown up here by the sweetness and light of the 1985 Volnay Les Mitans. There is a great Pommard here - but it is not coming out to play any time soon. Tasted at Noble Rot restaurant with Mr. S.