2011 - Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien

The 2011 Ducru-Beaucaillou, 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, is deep garnet in color. It scoots out of the glass with up-front notes of blackcurrant jelly, Morello cherries, and mulberries, followed by hints of wild sage, cedar chest, and black olives. The medium-bodied palate is lively and refreshing, with a lightly chewy texture and savory finish.

Almost as much tannin as in 2010 in terms of analysis, because this was a dry year, with small berries. Touch of smoked herbs, dry leaf, fennel and liqourice, along with plentiful cassis and bilberry fruit. This still feels self-contained and confident, ready to drink although will soften further over next few years. Harvest September 5 to 25, 100% new oak, Eric Boissenot consultant, the first year of his working without his father Jacques, Virginie Sallette technical director.

The 2011 Ducru-Beaucaillou was an early-picked vintage, 5-18 September, but has the same analysis as the 2009 and 2010 in terms of IPT. Matured in 90% new oak for 18 months, it has a very well defined bouquet with intense black fruit intermingling with dried herbs and liquorice; strangely, the 2011 is not unlike the 2005 in character and also being "not ready". The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, sweet and generous yet with countervailing acidity and a gorgeous, pure and nuanced finish. This is one of the real surprises of this vertical and must rank as one of the best Left Bank wines of the vintage. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.

'Early budbreak in March followed by a very warm and dry spring, with above-average temperatures and fine weather for flowering, predicted an early harvest (3 weeks ahead of 2010). Drought conditions in early summer continued until the second week of July. Rain in late July, followed by sunshine, ensured an early veraison. August weather was variable and overall temperatures were slightly cooler than average, extending the growing cycle, favouring full flavour development. Harvest was early, under a perfect September sun.' Harvest: 3–10 October. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Bruno Borie noted that the IPT (polyphenol index and ripeness level was the same as in 2010 and yet the wines are so different. The analyses do not tell you everything. Deep garnet with light rim. Lifted leafy aroma with notes of undergrowth. Tannins are a little bit lean and stringy but there is still an elegance to the structure here. A bit lean on the mid palate too. Surprisingly long. (JH)