2006 - Exile Shiraz, The Colonial Estate, Barossa Valley

(85% shiraz, 10% mourvedre and 5% grenache) Opaque violet. Powerfully scented nose offers an exotic array of dark berries and spices, with smoky minerals and fresh flowers adding complexity. Deep, palate-staining blackberry and mulberry flavors are sharply focused and surprisingly lithe, picking up a hint of sweet tobacco with air. A strikingly complex and seductive wine that will no doubt age but offers immense appeal now. This kept changing in the glass as I followed it over two days. (Multiple importers; www.maltus.com

The Colonial Estate’s two flagship wines come from their own property. The 2006 Exile was sourced from a single 140-year-old vineyard with the blend consisting of 85% Shiraz, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% Grenache. Opaque purple/black in color, it exhibits a captivating perfume of toasty oak, smoke, black pepper, truffle, blueberry pie, and blackberry liqueur. Complex, silky-textured, and nicely balanced, this layered, lengthy wine will continue to improve over the next 4-6 years and have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026. The Colonial Estate is the Australian project of Englishman and Bordeaux chateau owner Jonathan Maltus. His first vintage in Australia was 2002. The entry level wines are line-priced at $30 offering excellent bang for the buck. Importer: Single Vineyard Imports, www.maltus.com