1985 - Coteaux du Layon, Moulin Touchais

Hailing from a warm vintage that was one of the best in what would otherwise have been a fairly ordinary decade, the 1985 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon is starting to take on a deep golden appearance, commencing to amber. It offers a gorgeous, suave texture and a very complex nose that's a touch oxidative but that adds a layer of additional intrigue: it's all nuts, raisins, walnuts, olives, warm pastry, cinnamon, cooked orange peel. It's round and sweet (95g/L) but not unctuous with richness on the mid-palate while retaining enough acidity to refresh the mouth on the long finish. A wine that is very comfortable in its own skin, providing a very relaxing experience.

The Moulin Touchais 1985 Coteaux du Layon smells alluringly of baked apple, apple jelly, pink pineapple, and heady flowers. Lusciously rich on the palate, yet not lacking cut or clarity, it carries honey, baked apple and grapefruit into a long, rich, if not rivetingly complex finish. Heaven knows I would be delighted for the opportunity to sip a glass of either of these in a restaurant, whether as aperitif, with foie gras, or in lieu of dessert. An iconic Loire estate, Moulin Touchais ferments in stainless and bottles after only 6-8 months, then holds wine back for at least a decade. These would, I suspect, seldom count among the elite of their appellation in any given vintage, but the opportunity to benefit from maturation and at reasonable prices should not be missed. While I tasted both younger and older current releases, two stood out. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404