2009 - Larcis Ducasse, Saint-Emilion

The 2009 Larcis Ducasse is an exotic, flamboyant wine endowed with remarkable depth and pure pedigree. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine and red-fleshed fruits are front and center. Even with all of its voluptuousness and richness, the 2009 is firm and quite tannic. Readers should be prepared to cellar it for at least a handful of years.

This is a great 2009, showing that even when many in St Emilion were going long on extraction, here at Larcis Ducasse they were letting the terroir speak. Perhaps not as structurally precise and pure in its fruit expression as you would find today, but this is at a lovely moment to drink, with blackberry fruits, finely spun tannins, chocolate drops, sweet red liquorice, violet flowers, sea spray. Nicolas Thienpont director, Gratiot-Attmane owners, 55% new oak for ageing.

A blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Larcis Ducasse is deep garnet colored. It charges out with bold, beautiful notes of licorice, prunes, blueberry compote, and fresh figs, followed by suggestions of chargrill, wood smoke, and cigar box. The full-bodied palate is mature, delivering loads of dried berries and earthy layers with a velvety texture, finishing long with just enough freshness. Drink it now and over the next 10-12 years+.

The deep garnet colored 2009 Larcis Ducasse sashays out of the glass with compelling scents of kirsch, dried roses, Black Forest cake and crème de cassis with hints of black tea, cigar box and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is tautly structured with ripe, grainy tannins and lovely freshness, finishing long and perfumed.

Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Well built and sweet but not excessively so. Sweet start, then a little dry on the end. There is pleasure here to be had, especially with food. Quite long. Only very slightly porty. (JR)