2005 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve Celestins, Henri Bonneau

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins opens with a spice-driven bouquet layered with dried red fruits, caramel, dates and savory undertones. On the palate, it is full-bodied and deeply concentrated, its richness carried by chalky tannins that structure the wine without overwhelming it. The finish is long and infused with a lingering spiciness. The 2005 Réserve des Célestins still holds much in reserve—another five years or more of cellaring will allow it to fully unfurl and enter its prime drinking window, where it will deliver immense pleasure for decades to come.

Surprisingly, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins was much more open, rounded and sexy than the more austere, angular Marie Beurrier. This is a gorgeous, classic effort by Bonneau that's overflowing with notions of sweet Grenache fruit, Provencal garrigue, cured meats, beef blood and spice. The aromatics alone are worth the price of admission, and the palate doesn't lose a beat, with full-bodied richness, a full, layered, concentrated mid-palate and sweet tannin on the finish. Like the Marie Beurrier, the acidity here is elevated, yet in this case, it's beautifully woven into the wine. It offers serious pleasure now, yet will have no problems continuing to evolve nicely for another 15+ years.