2009 - Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Chateau des Ducs, Michel Lafarge

The estate’s 2009 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs saturates the palate with its deep, persistent fruit. The aromas and flavors build in the glass towards the rich, multi-dimensional finish. This shows marvelous staying power and fabulous overall balance. The Clos du Chateau des Ducs is more overtly fruit-driven and structured but perhaps a touch less aromatically expressive than the Mitans. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Michel Lafarge. The estate farms biodynamically. The wines were left on their gross lees through the malos, which ended in April-May. Lafarge did one racking, in August, 2010, when he moved the wine off their gross lees, leaving just the fine lees. I tasted the 2009s from barrel. Lafarge planned to bottle later in Spring 2011 with no fining or filtration, as is his usual custom. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Rather pale red. Highly aromatic, expressive scents of redcurrant, cherry, spices and flowers. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained, in the typically feminine style of this wine--and classic Volnay. Lovely pliant red fruit and licorice flavors saturate the mouth, with a saline element adding interest on the long finish. Shows an attractive light touch and supple tannins. This will go truffley with bottle aging.