2009 - Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien

A beautiful example of the estate and the vintage, you can dive right in to the depth of cassis and bilberry fruits, studded with tobacco leaf, charcoal, crushed rocks, cocoa powder and juicy raspberries. Delivers appellation typicity and then some, stretches out through the palate, excellent quality. It's not the power so much as the perfect placing, everything working together to deliver a delicious drinking claret - and it's one where I would recommend the 2009 over the 2010, at least for the next decade. Eric Boissenot consultant, 50% new oak.

Deep garnet-colored with a touch of brick, the 2009 Gruaud Larose comes galloping out with ready-to-go scents of stewed black plums, blackcurrant jelly, and rose oil followed by suggestions of sandalwood, cast-iron pan, and underbrush. The medium-bodied palate is drinking deliciously right now, delivering firm, velvety tannins and just enough freshness to the generous fruit, finishing long and perfumed.

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There's much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, dark chocolate, sage and a long tail on the finish. There is an immediate attraction to this Gruaud Larose, though I suspect it will not get much better than it is now. Tasted at the Gruaud Larose vertical at the château in February 2023.