2009 - Saint-Pierre, Saint-Julien

Medium to deep garnet in color, the 2009 Saint-Pierre displays maturing notes of crème de cassis, blackberry pie and prunes with hints of cardamom, fennel and star anise. Full-bodied, concentrated and jam-packed with black fruit preserves and fantastic freshness to balance, it has a firm, grainy texture and very long, exotic spice finish.

The 2009 Saint-Pierre knocks the ball out of the park. It is a stunning Saint-Julien that has blossomed in recent years. I must confess that none of the previous bottles intimated the potential shown here. It is more compact, tighter on the nose than its peers, opening seductively with gorgeous graphite and bayleaf infused black fruit, real mineralité and great tension. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy to the point where it belies the backbone, very nicely poised with a precise and long graphite finish. Ducru-Beacaillou and Léoville Las-Cases - here is your challenger to the crown. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

Even in such a ripe vintage as 2009, you'll find appellation typicity, and this is a perfectly-drawn St Julien. Plum and blackberry fruits, cocoa bean, espresso, crayon, incense and crushed mint leaf, balanced and juicy. Still on the young side - you can begin drinking now, or give it a few more years before cracking it open - then invite some of your favourite people around and get ready to make them smile. 55% new oak.

Tasted blind. Low-key nose. Lots of concentration on the palate though. A long-distance runner. Pretty impressive. Glossy and lots of fun, but still embryonic. (JR)