2012 - Cote Rotie Terres Sombres, Cuilleron

The most impressive of the trio is the 2012 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres! A smoking blend of 100% Syrah that will see 18 months in 60% new French oak, it boasts knockout aromas of black raspberry, cassis, violets, licorice and crushed rock. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully pure and elegant, with fine tannin emerging on the finish, it has loads of potential, as well as upwards of two decades of longevity. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

(50% new oak): Inky ruby. Sexy, inviting aromas of cherry compote, blackcurrant, incense and smoky Indian spices, with a peppery nuance in the background. Smooth, sweet and open-knit, offering sappy dark fruit and spicecake flavors complemented by notes of cola and violet pastille. Sweet and youthfully tannic on the clinging finish, with repeating smoke and floral qualities. Shows a very civilized character for this bottling, which is often a tough read in its early days.