2014 - Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

(half from Pernand and half from Aloxe; the 2013 was entirely from Aloxe-Corton as the Pernand fruit was killed by hail; very late malo here): Pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of lime, minerals, wild herbs and lavender. Dense, thick and classically dry, showing a slightly buttery quality in the middle palate and a distinctly tannic impression on the long finish. This has the breadth and structure of a red wine and is almost painful in the early going.

The 2014 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru is a blend of Pernand and Aloxe-Corton fruit, whereas the previous vintage was just the latter due to hail damage. Interestingly, Pierre-Yves told me that he always picks both sites on the same date (around September 15). It has a clean and precise bouquet, although like many, it just seems to lack the animation, the minerality of some of the fine premier cru sites in the Côte de Beaune. The palate is nicely balanced with a keen thread of acidity, though it just seems to attenuate a little towards the finish.

Barrel sample. 2003 onwards. Half from Pernand (high) and half from Aloxe (mid way). Picked the same day and blended in the press. Back to classic from just-Aloxe in 2013. Very rich nose. Then fine and sculpted palate. Lots of texture and only a notch ‘better’ than his finest premiers crus. Quite spicy and broad but still quite austere and lots to chew on. (JR)