1996 - Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

Famously the only Bordeaux red wine outside of the Médoc to be included in the 1855 classification, Haut-Brion was owned by Joseph Eugène Larrieu at the time, in place since the 1830s. He was an important and impressive steward of the estate, with his family heading things up until the 1920s. This has stunning aromatics, the most complex of the lineup tasted here, and underlines why 1996 is recognised as one of the great - and often underestimated - vintages of Haut-Brion. Opens at a slow, steady pace, tobacco leaf and grilled cedar, soft blackberry and cassis fruit, gentle cigar box and pencil lead, ready to drink. 65% new oak for ageing.

While it's the Médoc that tends to steal the limelight in this vintage, the 1996 Haut-Brion, the fruit of a strict selection, is a brilliant wine and comparatively underestimated today. Wafting from the glass with aromas of tobacco leaf, sweet currant fruit, loamy soil, cedar box and camphor, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and intense, with a deep core of fruit, sweet tannins and a long, sapid finish.

Full ruby-red. Initially mute nose opened slowly to reveal complex aromas of raspberry, plum, hot stones, tobacco, saddle leather and toffee. Really explodes on the palate; lush and minerally, with a compelling note of woodsmoke and firm acidity. Wonderful combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes very long and subtle, with firm tannins.

Served alongside Guigal La Landonne 1996, whose directness and glossy appeal rather put the softness and diffuseness of this wine in the shade. I'm sure it would have shone if served solo or next to a more minor red bordeaux. Light saltiness on the finish. (JR)