2004 - Flaccianello delle Pieve, Fontodi, Colli della Toscana Centrale

The 2004 Flaccianello della Pieve is super elegant, polished and impeccably refined, just as it always has been. At the same time, it is one of the bigger 2004s from Tuscany readers will come across. Dark red berries, flowers, spices and menthol are layered into the finish. Today the aromatics aren't full developed, but that should not be an issue in another few years. There is plenty of underlying structure to support many years of fine drinking. The quality of the tannins is particularly fine, especially next to the other great Flaccianellos.

On first inspection, the 2004 and 2005 vintages were neck in next in terms of immediate appeal, but following further inspection, the 2004 Flaccianello della Pieve came out ahead as my favorite of the two. This vintage shows a greater sense of depth and dimension with a more pronounced point of sharp acidity down deep at the core. This makes a lasting difference. This growing season saw a late harvest (with fruit coming off the vines starting October 5th), and as has been so well documented in this retrospective, Sangiovese loves the longest growing seasons. The bouquet shows fading primary aromas, but the wine still holds strong and still resists any signs of flattening oxidation. Spicy notes of cured meat and bresaola cede to toasted nuts, tar and barbecue smoke. That savory signature is stronger in this vintage (compared to 2005), but it never feels too heavy or thick. In fact, this wine is still tightly wound at the center. It is humming along very nicely.

Very dark, intense and smoky on the nose. Tight and fresh. This tastes pretty modernist in style. Firm and very youthful. (JR)