1995 - Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, Marquis d'Angerville

The 1995 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was described as "sometimes, a great surprise" by Guillaume d'Angerville - which is exactly what this was. Clearly riper on the nose than the '96, the fruit redder in profile with luscious wild strawberry, quince and red plum scents, edging towards kirsch-like scents with aeration, this is just a gorgeous Clos des Ducs to simply nose. The palate is very fleshy, almost corpulent in the mouth, almost viscous in texture with an elegant, saline finish. This is just divine with the substance to suggest another 15 to 20 years service.

Dark red with a healthy rim. Inviting scents of black cherry, dark plum and dried flowers convey a musky, faintly carnal quality (this wine was closed for a long time, noted Guillaume d'Angerville). Quite silky and sweet in the mouth, with very rich cherry, raspberry and spice flavors nicely framed by harmonious acidity. Finishes with a powerful dusting of building tannins and lovely rising length. This wine was quite unforthcoming in the years following bottling, with its tannins dominant, but today it's a very pleasant surprise. At the outset I preferred the '96, but not today. (13.15% alcohol; September 30 harvest; 28 h/h; 3.36 pH)

Guillaume d’Angerville: ‘I don’t drink 1995s very often. Jacques described them as rather middle of the road’, but the Norwegian burgundy specialist at the tasting suggested it must have been a very good road. Harvest 30 September, yield 28 hl/ha, pH 3.36. Very vegy and rich on the nose. Sweet and round. Quite delicate and racy. Lacy texture. Transparent. Chewy and unyielding but very noble and typical. There really isn’t too much of a gulf between the 1996 and the 1995. (JR)