1994 - Penfolds, Grange

The two vintages I hesitated over for Grange, both tasted and loved in 2025, were from the John Duval era at Penfolds, making it a lovely coincidence that I tasted Songlines with the man himself this year. I almost chose the 1990 Grange, and you'll find the note for that wine on the site also, but in the end the 1994 just pipped in, with its signature plum pudding, liquorice, cassis, fennel, smoked tea, cracked pepper and black cherry flavours, all still fully in play at 31 years old. 100% American oak.

Proprietor of Château Séraphin, Martin Krajewski, opened two bottles of 1994 Penfolds Grange from his cellar. I must admit, I was completely entranced. Perhaps, having marinated my palate in prenatal claret over the previous week, my senses exaggerated its virtues, but I don’t think so. This was a blend of 89% Shiraz and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from Barossa (Kalimna Vineyard), McClaren Vale and Coonawarra. Lucid ruby in hue, it offers red plum, kirsch and fresh fig, touches of sandalwood and light marmalade scents. So sensual and yet beautifully delineated. The palate has a viscous texture on the entry, perfectly balanced. This is a wine that convinces upon the first sip that it has reached its apex. It’s deep and caressing, with layers of slightly confit-like red fruit with allspice and subtle tertiary and mocha notes on the finish. Every drop is savored. I am no expert on Australian wine, but the Coonawarra component seems to be the most expressive. This is, frankly, one of the best vintages of Australia’s iconic wine that I have ever tasted.

A substantial 11% of the 1994 Grange is Cabernet Sauvignon, and it's most clearly apparent on the elegant, leafy, floral nose. On the palate, it's more clearly Grange and Shiraz-like, with plenty of weight and richness along with flavors of dried fruit, roasted meat and mocha, but there's also a sense that it's starting to lighten and become approachable/mature. Drink now or hold up to another 10 years or so.

Peter Gago’s first red-wine vintage. Blackish garnet. Crushed ants and blackberries. Such excitement compressed in here! Dry finish but, with ink and fruit, this should eventually be a great drink. Very long finish. So impressive! (JR)