2005 - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Joh. Jos. Prum

Pale golden yellow. Subdued bouquet of passion fruit, nut oil and acacia blossom.The lusciously sweet tropical fruits are highlighted by a refreshing gingery acidity that keeps the palate light in spite of the wine's impressive density. Elegant, airy and aristocratic rather than overblown, this auslese finishes astoundingly long, on a note of spicy botrytis.

Bert Selbach picked his entire crop in just two weeks beginning the tenth of October, preserving healthy acidity throughout his range, even when it is sometimes covered by overt sweetness in the youthful wines. The 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese smells and tastes of spiced apple jelly, pink grapefruit, and banana, with underlying notes of wet stone and vanilla. Quite opulent on the palate, it exhibits truly generous richness in its finish, a refined, impeccably-balanced and very soothing expression of the Sonnenuhr already imposing but apt to display more complexity over 10-20 years of aging. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($15.00; 85), 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb (unknown; 86). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Smells much more of the soil than the Graacher Himmelreich Auslese 2005; firmer, chalky, cool wet stones. Leafy. On the palate it has more density and the acidity seems more pronounced – the sweetness too. Oranges, spices, deep and quite unctuous. Altogether a more demanding, powerful wine – the baritone to the Himmelreich soprano? Seems more evolved as well. A wine that commands attention. (TC)