2004 - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Joh. Jos. Prum

Sublime aromas of blackcurrant, passion fruit and mango are lifted by fine floral elements. The luscious peach pit fruit and silky texture are framed by finely chiseled minerality. Dense but airy, this is an almost perfect spätlese. Finishes with a stately character, excellent length and the unmistakable wild-fermentation signature of Dr. Manfred Prüm. This was one of the stars of the vintage when it was released and remains so today.

The 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, like so many 2004s from this site, is brisk and raw-fruit in character. Fresh apple, clover, and a pungent note of green wood impact the nose, with grapefruit, apple, and honey characteristics filling the mouth. The strong finish evinces fascinating layers of fresh and baked apple as well as tart apple skin and pungent spice and herbal notes. Overall, this offering displays a lovely vivacity and interplay of fruit and slate, along with a subtle hint of creaminess apt to come out as the wine matures. And certainly this crop of Weins-Prum Spatlesen will do so nicely for at least 15 or 20 years. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA (800) 596-9463.