1998 - Margaux, Margaux

Owner Corinne Menzelopoulos said of the 1998: 'We came very close to making a great vintage', because the excellent weather was just thrown off course by rain at the beginning of harvest. It might not have the perfection of the 2009 vintage (one of my six 100 point wines given in 2022 tastings), but it's hard to argue with the supple, balanced and effortless pleasure offered by this bottle. Expect white truffle, soy, undergrowth, raspberry leaf, saffron, cassis, turmeric, brambled autumnal fruit and a kick of orange peel giving focus and grip on the finish. 50% of crop in 1st wine. Paul Pontallier technical director, 100% new oak.

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not the most complex First Growth you will find. Haut-Brion is far superior in this vintage. It attenuates slightly towards its finish, though it is still an appealing Château Margaux without the frills.

The 1998 Margaux's color is a dense ruby/purple. The wine is tannic and austere, but elegant, with notes of asphalt, blackberries, acacia flowers, and sweet, toasty oak. Subtle, rich, nicely-textured, and medium-bodied, it is built for the long haul. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030.

Deep crimson. Powerful, direct aroma. Strongly cassis. Fresh and yet mouth-filling and almost creamy/buttery on the palate in terms of texture. Very clean and fresh. Hint of char. Very convincing as a first growth. Long and rich. Direct with masses of fruit disguising the slightly grainy tannins. Tangy and lively… You could drink this with food now! Very good wine. (JR)