2000 - Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien

The plushest, most ostentatious and dramatic of all the Leovilles in 2000, this wine is already sumptuous, displaying some nuances in its huge nose of vanilla bean, black chocolate, jammy black cherries, cassis, and graphite in a flamboyant style. Opulent, savory, rich, and full-bodied, it is a head-turning, prodigious wine and a complete contrast to the extracted behemoth of Leoville Barton and the backward, classic Leoville Las Cases. The Poyferre’s low acidity, sweet tannin and an already gorgeous mouthfeel make it a wine to drink now as well as over the next 25 or more years.

Olive tapenade, leather, black tea, liquorice, alongside ripe blackberry fruits that remain generous at 21 years old. There are plenty of fine but firm tannins and after a stubborn start the vintage is finally starting to relax and open up. As you settle in, the sweet fruit falls away to allow a complex addition of licking salinity with crushed stones and slate texture, with remnants of the toasted oak that it was aged in giving a smoky seductive finish. Ready to drink with a short decanting. Harvest September 26 to October 10. This was Isabelle Davin's first year as technical director, with Michel Rolland consultant since 1996. Blending at the end of ageing at the time (through to 2005). 80% new oak.

Medium garnet-brick in color, the 2000 Leoville Poyferre rocks up with bold notions of cigar box, baked cherries, dried mulberries, and creme de cassis with hints of eucalyptus, Chinese five spice, sandalwood, and leather. Medium-bodied, with lovely freshness and spicy layers defining the mature palate, it has a lightly chewy texture and long savory finish.

The 2000 Léoville-Poyferré was poured blind at Medlar restaurant, though it was pretty easy to single out. This bottle is slightly higher-toned than the previous, black fruit, melted tar and a touch of roasted chestnut, maybe displaying just a touch more Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth and concentration, white pepper and thyme lending more complexity towards the finish. It does not possess the precision that has defined recent vintages, yet it has an almost bucolic charm and the substance to suggest it will give another two decades of drinking pleasure. Tasted at Medlar in London.