2003 - Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Leognan

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc; 13.3% alcohol): Medium-dark red. Aromatic notes of bay leaf, pine needles and orange rind complement red cherry on the nose. Enters the mouth sweet and creamy, then turns tougher on the back half, showing good freshness but only moderate concentration and length to the red and black fruit flavors. Finishes with mountingly astringent tannins. Besides the lack of full polyphenolic ripeness due to the furnace-like heat of 2003, this also seems too evolved already, but perhaps it was just my bottle. Still, I am not surprised by this result as over the years I have found that I can count the truly noteworthy Bordeaux from the wildly overrated 2003 vintage on the fingers of two hands.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Harvested 9 to 26 September. Deep core with brick at the rim. Subtle sous-bois and red-fruit notes. Perhaps a note of prune but fresh all the same. Sweet palate but sufficient acidity to provide freshness. A bit monotone but very good for the vintage and still holding up. Slightly drying finish. (JL)