2015 - Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken

Based on single berries that were not yet fully dried, the 2015 (Saarburg) Rausch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule is very clear, fresh and concentrated on the nose, with intense and very clear citrus flavors. On the palate, this is a very clear, finessed and concentrated Auslese. It shows a lush and concentrated, but not terribly sweet fruit, as a result of the remarkably high yet delicate 9.9 grams per liter of acidity. (375-milliliter bottles)

This bottling not only reflects a careful selection at the moment of picking for balance among botrytized, otherwise desiccated and still-juicy berries, but also reflects further sorting on tables spread out in the vineyard. Intense fruit and prickly spice suggest glazed pineapple, quince jelly, white raisin and mango chutney, pungently wreathed in woodsmoke and shot through with bright fresh lime and grapefruit on a glossy palate. There is a raw edge to this performance but also a striking sense of concentration and energy that makes for a finish of mouth-shaking intensity and prodigious length. I’d let it settle down a bit before revisiting.