1998 - Leoville Poyferre, Saint-Julien

The 1998 Léoville-Poyferré is quintessentially 1998 on the nose with its quasi-Napa like blueberry and blackberry fruit, ostentatious and almost garish compared to other vintages, inkwell and violet scents bursting forth. The palate is rich and succulent, less glossy than it once showed, those tannins perhaps coarser than I remember as the finish has polymerised. What is missing is the finesse of later vintages, almost as if this is trying too hard to compete, yet well-stored bottles will continue to offer pleasure. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at a dinner in Bordeaux.