1995 - Coteaux du Layon Tour, Chateau Soucherie

After Tijou had finished his 1995 harvest, he realized he had forgotten a parcel. He worried that the super-ripe grapes would not have the requisite acidity to provide the balance and harmony he desires in his wines (ie. He is not a "sugar hunter"), but his sons convinced him to finish the harvest and produce a wine. To my palate, the 1995 Coteaux du Layon Cuvee de la Tour is at the extreme limit of traditional style Coteaux du Layons, yet it does not qualify as a "sugar hunter's" wine due to its delineation and acidity. Revealing white truffle, quince, herbal tea and honey scents, this wine offers an unbelievably intense, full-bodied, viscous and super-concentrated character. The flavors of tangerines, candied grapefruits, mangoes, and clove-spiked poached pears roll over the palate in oily waves. Its unending finish regales the olfactory senses with additional notes of liquid minerals, sweetened Earl Grey tea and honeysuckle pistils. Unlike Tijou's other wines, the Cuvee de la Tour is made for contemplative sipping after dinner (in place of dessert). Anticipated maturity: 2003-2030+. Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.