2005 - Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling BA, Selbach-Oster

The 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese smells intensely honeyed, with nut paste, apple jelly, citrus oils, and a hint of molasses as well. In the mouth, this offers a most amazing combination of jellied viscosity and caramelization of fruit, a nut-brittle character of almond and hazelnut, and along with all this, the clarity and purity of a stream of fresh fruit. An intensely esterous, billowing finish carries apple, white raisin, and toasted nuts on waves of caramel, fruit jelly, and a persistently refreshing core of fresh fruit that only Riesling can deliver under circumstances this ripe and nobly rotten. It's hard not to get carried away on these waves and with this wine. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Rich golden yellow. Heady aromas of apricot preserve, glazed pineapple and nutmeg embedded in deep, smoky botrytis.The unctuous apricot preserve and honeyed texture are given definition by the wine's restrained acidity and mineral drive.Still quite closed and in need of patience, but a touch richer and more ethereal than the Schlossberg.

Much, much richer than the Schaefer Beerenauslese tasted immediately beforehand. It really does taste of extremely ripe, botrytised, berries. Very rich and tingly. Very long already. One of the more expressive BAs. Great stuff! (JR)