2008 - Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac

Earthy tannins that are a little austere, this is classic Pauillac but is softened and beginning to show hints of tertiary, soy, olive and sweet strawberry notes. If you are going to drink now, give it a good 2 or 3 hours in carafe to really stretch out, as there are some subtle layers of smoke and cedar that become clearer with time, and this wine is far from giving up all its secrets yet. No mid palate dip, and still with depth to the cassis fruits, but not as concentrated or powerful as the best years. Harvest October 2 to 14, 70% new oak.

The 2008 Grand Puy Lacoste has a very expressive bouquet with blackberry, cedar and graphite notes, quintessentially Pauillac, building in intensity all the time in the glass but remaining correct. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin on the entry, more red fruit here than black, good density with a fine bead of acidity. This all leads to a cohesive finish that might be more forward than I expected or would have liked. It is a fine GPL albeit one that feels conservative and does not reach for the stars like other vintages under Xavier Borie. (Tasted at BI Wine and Spirit’s annual 10-Year On tasting.)