2016 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques, Sylvie Esmonin

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques was due for racking in the New Year, Sylvie waiting because she wanted the wine to spend longer on the lees. This vintage includes 60% whole bunch fruit. There was a lot of reduction on the nose as Sylvie forewarned so we will have to bypass the aromatics. On the palate there is much more expression. What strikes you is the sheer untrammelled energy contained in this Clos Saint-Jacques that immediately revivified the senses. It feels extremely harmonious, the new oak holding a sway upon the final third at the moment but given the requisite bottle age then that will be assimilated. As usual, it is a Clos Saint-Jacques that leans more towards black than red fruit (à la Rousseau or Fourrier) but there is great precision and length in situ.

Tank sample. A bit reduced. Juicy and fine and very much of the vineyard. A super-cool customer. Lots to chew on but lovely silky fruit. Lots of intrigue underneath. (JR)