2008 - Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses

The 2008 Clos des Goisses is just as impressive today as it has always been. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2008 exists in three dimensions, with remarkable textural depth and vertical intensity to burn. Clos des Goisses is notoriously slow to develop. Readers who can be patient will be treated to a spectacular Champagne. The blend is 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, which makes the 2008 a rare Clos des Goisses that favors Chardonnay. About 75% of the lots were fermented in oak. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter.

Comprising 45% Pinot Noir and 55% Chardonnay and disgorged in March 2018 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, Philipponnat’s 2008 Clos des Goisses marks the last vintage in which this cuvée was Chardonnay-dominant. With approximately 75% of the wine vinified in oak, it opens in the glass with an aromatic profile of crisp pear, brioche and baking spices, interwoven with hints of spring flowers and stone fruit. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied and tightly wound, with a mid-palate defined by electric acidity and a taut, tensile core, concluding with a long lemon-inflected finish. With its chiseled and incisive character, it presents a striking stylistic counterpoint to the more voluptuous 2009. Despite its pronounced, bracing acidity, the fruit has held up very well, maintaining harmony. This remains a profoundly youthful Champagne; those seeking immediate charm and generosity would be better served by opening the 2009 instead.

All from this grand cru enclosed vineyard. 45% Pinot Noir, 55% Chardonnay; 75% in oak, no malo. Aged for 10 years on the lees. Disgorged April 2017. Dosage 4.25 g/l – always! Charles Philipponnat thinks 2008 is like 1996.Tasted blind. Dense. Savoury and tangy. Explosive on the palate. Really like a firework! Neat and fresh yet ready. Really rather gorgeous. 2008? (JR)