2014 - Barolo Cannubi, Comm. G.B. Burlotto

While Monvigliero gets most of the attention at Burlotto, the Cannubi is often nearly as compelling, and in 2014, it is perhaps a touch more complete. Mesmerizingly vivid and beautiful, the 2014 is deep, powerful and beautifully layered on the palate, with fabulous balance and irresistible allure. In this tasting, I find the Cannubi fleshier and more generous than the Monvigliero. In the cool vintage, the exposure and soils of Cannubi were probably a bit more favorable than those of Monvigliero. Incidentally, a recent bottle of the 2013 more than lived up to the lofty praise I bestowed upon it a year ago.

The 2014 Barolo Cannubi is a surprising wine in that it shows more fruit ripeness than I would have anticipated for this cool and humid vintage. The Cannubi cru is famously characterized by sandy soils, which, of course, favor water runoff and result in darker and more concentrated berries. This wine opens to a darkly saturated appearance and shows bold aromas of blackberry, plum and spice. In the mouth, the wine delivers firm structure and polished tannins.

Barolo. Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Beautiful, pure raspberry fruit nose. Precise, racy raspberry fruit with gorgeous, chewy tannins. Super elegant and lithe. (WS)