2017 - Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

"Gothic wine" was the comment of Alexandre Thienpont on the 2017 vintage of Vieux Chateau Certan. The blend this year is 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and the color is deep garnet-purple. It needs a lot of shaking to wake up notes of Morello cherries, black raspberries, tar, and licorice, with emerging scents of plum preserves, black truffles, and crushed rocks, plus a hint of candied violets. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is tightly knit with loads of densely wound layers and fantastic freshness, supported by very fine-grained tannins, finishing long and mineral-laced. It should be very long lived!

The 2017 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12. This has a perfumed and quite floral bouquet with blackberries and violets. It shows lovely definition and mineralité, that hint of wild heather coming through but none of the previous menthol scents. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced with chiseled tannins, which are a perfect bead of acidity. I adore how this gathers momentum towards the lightly spiced, persistent finish. This shows better than when I tasted it just after bottling six years ago, hence my higher score. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Much less touched by the 2017 frost than its neighbours. ‘A cool, dry winter followed by a mild, rainy spring ensured an early, even budding. Summer-like temperatures around 20th May triggered a very quick flowering. High temperatures and humidity in June led to vigorous vine growth. The vines’ good health, since the beginning of the growing cycle, continued with the fine, hot and dry summer weather.’ Harvest started 12 September.Very deep crimson. Intense, beautifully balanced, very VCC nose. Fluid and fresh and absolutely what VCC is all about. Fine tannins and acidity linger on the long finish. Really rather beautiful. Lots of future but approachable actually! (JR)