2016 - Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Comte Georges de Vogue

The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was 70% affected by the frost, though François explained that the north side was spared the damage. It offers slightly darker fruit on the nose compared to the Les Amoureuses: blackcurrant, tobacco, sage and in the background a touch of flint and violet petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin, though not quite as supple as the Les Amoureuses. I admire the symmetry here: a detailed and linear Bonnes Mares with impressive mineralité on the finish that lingers 45 to 60 seconds after the wine has departed.

South-east corner, downslope, so all terres rouges/red clay. (The Morey-St-Denis side has more structure.) Quite different from the other wines at this domaine with a deeper purple colour and really firm, savoury nose. More earth-bound, less ethereal. Hint of vegetal – by which I don’t mean unripe. Broad on the palate. Less tense and more brutal. Needs a lot of time. Lots to chew on on the finish. (JR)