2017 - Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Joh. Jos. Prum

Seldom have I observed such a striking difference between a youthful Prüm Kabinett from Graacher Himmelreich and one from Wehlener Sonnenuhr as in this vintage. Heady honeysuckle and gardenia are accompanied on the nose by very ripe pear and Persian melon, anticipating the inner-mouth perfume and lush fruit that deploy on a glossy, buoyant palate. Pear seed piquancy serves for welcome counterpoint on a finish that is luscious, rounded and highly imposing, if lacking the brightness or energy conveyed at this stage by the corresponding Graacher. But give it at least a little time.