2016 - Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Coche-Dury

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is the most distinctive wine in the range, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crushed chalk, tart green apple, dried white flowers and struck flint. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny and searingly intense, with tangy acids, huge concentration and the pronouncedly mineral, stony signature that always seems to mark out this bottling. Along with Genevrières, Coche's parcel in Perrières was largely spared by the 2016 frosts. Given its utterly classic profile, a dozen years' patience is advised.

The 2016 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru is tightly wound and a little sullen on the nose at first, gradually—or perhaps reluctantly—opening. I find myself seeking more mineralité given the vineyard. The palate is pure yet backward, with good depth of lemon sherbet, lime, touches of quince and crushed stone towards the finish (finally!). It doesn't quite convince me as much as Coche-Dury's other Perrières. Tasted at the Richebourg vertical dinner in Taipei.