2017 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne, Fourrier

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Combe Aux Moines 1er Cru is tasted from the regular blend matured in oak, although readers should note that Fourrier is trialing some of this cuvée aged in amphora that may or may not be added. It has an attractive bouquet with vivacious Morello cherries, wild strawberry and orange rind aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe fruit, quite spicy with white pepper and touches of sage and oregano livening up the finish. It is already a very promising Gevrey, so I am fascinated to see whether the amphora component ends up being used.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe Aux Moines is also showing beautifully from bottle, revealing aromas of cherries, raspberries and cassis complemented by suggestions of rose petals and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, supple and succulent, it's broad shouldered and attractively complete, but it also exemplifies the weightless charm that typifies the vintage at its best.

Next to Goulots. Planted flat in an old quarry like a warm amphitheatre. This apparently gives it a sweeter ripeness on the palate and more red fruits. Has the same dark aromatic intensity of Les Goulots on the nose. Incredibly pure and refined. On the palate, the tannins are firmer but also a little more rounded, with a touch more richness overall. (JH)