2017 - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques, Duroche

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is drinking well young. That said, I was surprised by the fruit concentration on the nose that manifested with a couple of hours of decanting, which is mandatory apropos Pierre Duroché’s wines. Fragrant redcurrant and white-tipped strawberries, rose petal and potpourri—these aromas are all delivered with fine delineation and purity. The palate likewise is denser than expected for a ‘17 Pinot Noir born in one of the Côte de Nuits’ cooler microclimates. Lithe tannins and an appealing rondeur build towards the velvety finish. This is drinking beautifully now but perhaps has more “legs” than I originally anticipated.

Performing well from bottle, the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques reveals aromas of red berries, plums, potpourri, dark chocolate and rich soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's supple, succulent and open-knit, with a delicate core of fruit and melting tannins. Deceptively elegant, I would bet on this putting on appreciable weight with some time in bottle.