2017 - Radio Lazarus, Alheit Vineyards, Stellenbosch

The terroir in the Alheit wines shows through with the 2017 Radio Lazarus. Beyond the classic Chenin Blanc expressions of yellow apple, Meyer lemon and lanolin, there is a cheese rind aspect that lingers on the palate. The depth and breadth are evident once the wine hits the palate. Alheit knows exactly what they are doing with these wines, which turn out as focused Chenin with precision and minerality. The fruit is woven into a textural sensation that lifts the dusty white minerality, which may have been lent from the clay pots the wine was aged in. No oak was used for this wine. In short, this is a cerebral, medium-bodied wine that has texture and a lively tension, ending with a long mineral-driven finish. Only 165 cases were made, and it's worth the money.

The sad news is that the 2017 Radio Lazarus will probably be the final vintage, due to drought that has made this marginal vineyard virtually untenable. It is cropped at around 700kg/ha due to the drought and eutypa dieback. The fragrant bouquet features light apricot blossom and dried honey scents. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity and quite neutral in style, displaying light resinous, pithy notes toward the almost Albariño-like finish. If this is a valedictory wine, then it’s a fine way to bow out.