2012 - Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Fontaine-Gagnard

The 2012 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the family’s one-third hectare holding planted between the 1930s and 1990s. It was picked the same day as the premier crus and Celine told me that it always has a slightly higher degree of alcohol. It has an entrancing bouquet with perfumed apricot, peach and dried citrus peel notes infused with minerals – feminine and seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded, powerful, spicy opening. It is very well balanced, very concentrated on the finish. This is compelling like so many from this under-rated grand cru vineyard, though there are just four barrels instead of the usual eight in this year. I’ve been smitten by the wines of this Chassagne producer ever since winemaker Celine Gagnard poured me a hauntingly beautiful Criots-Batard-Montrachet in London several years ago. Celine is one of those immediately likeable winemakers: an outgoing personality with an uncommon side order of self-deprecating humor, frankness and self-confessed chattiness. There is directness in her approach that is refreshing. It probably stems from her father Richard, an air force mechanic who upon meeting his wife Laurence Gagnard, dropped everything to study winemaking. Together they established their own domaine initially through rented parcels and debuted with the 1985 vintage. They now have an impressive portfolio as Laurence’s father Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange has handed down parcels so that they presently own an enviable trove of Chassagne premier crus. Celine did not dither in expounding her views upon organic winemaking, de rigueur amongst vignerons. She is adamant that the practice is leaving too many copper deposits in the vineyard. Good point – one rarely addressed. And whereas many winemakers are gently dialing down the level of new oak, here at Fontaine-Gagnard it is part of the intrinsic character of the wines, not that they showed excessive use. To this end, at Fontaine-Gagnard they venture into the forest to

Musky, oily peach and smoky oak on the nose. Round and sweet, with complex lemon, lime, stone fruit, honey and leesy flavors nicely framed by harmonious, ripe acidity. Less penetrating and subtle than the Caillerets but compellingly sweet and very long on the aftertaste. Plenty of power here.