2018 - Ormes de Pez, Saint-Estephe

The 2018 Ormes de Pez is deep garnet-purple in color. It zips out with notes of kirsch, sassafras, and roses, with a core of warm cassis, blackberry pie, and cinnamon toast. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers intense red and black fruit layers, with ripe, grainy tannins and a vibrant, lifted finish.

The 2018 Les Ormes de Pez was a perplexing wine from barrel, when I felt it was unnaturally hedonistic. Now in bottle, it does not dispense with what is still a comparatively exotic bouquet for a Saint-Estèphe in this vintage: brash red fruit, kirsch and cassis aromas. This is quite seductive but it just misses the DNA of the appellation. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and corpulent, with saturated tannins and a ripe, licorice-tinged finish. I maintain that this is an enjoyable Les Ormes de Pez, but it is still not my favorite in recent years.

Tasted blind. Marked acidity and not-quite-ripe tannins. Quite challenging at this point but there is fruit there and this may simply need time. (JR)