2018 - Canon, Saint-Emilion

The fruit here is still crunchy and vibrant at three years old, blueberry, black cherry, smoked almonds and saffron. Clear density from beginning to end of the palate, with a rich full texture. Tannins are poised and confident, softening and adding to a creamy texture after 10 minutes in the glass. Bound to keep powering on for decades, needs another three or four years before starting to approach. 42hl/h, 52% new oak, 3.69ph, harvest September 7 to October 5. Thomas Duclos consults.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 Canon erupts from the glass with powerful notes of plum preserves, stewed blueberries, and molten chocolate with nuances of licorice, Chinese five spice, and fertile loam. The medium to full-bodied palate is firm and chewy, with just enough freshness to match the muscular, savory layers, finishing a little firm at this stage.

A blend of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Franc, the 2018 Canon has a pH of 3.69 and 14% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in color, it tumbles effortlessly out of the glass with a gorgeous perfume of candied violets, preserved plums, black cherry compote and Ceylon tea with hints of kirsch, powdered cinnamon, chocolate box and fertile loam. The medium to full-bodied palate is packed with juicy black fruit layers, supported by plush, oh-so-soft tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing long and fragrant.

The 2018 Canon was picked starting on September 7 and finishing on October 9. Given a two-hour decant, it reveals a surprisingly precocious bouquet, more exuberant than I recall from barrel, offering predominantly black fruit, though the floral element is now amplified and masks the crushed limestone I observed previously (for how long?) The palate delivers multilayered black cherry and blueberry fruit, wrapped up in supple tannins and such a cashmere texture that it feels deceptively approachable when in truth, it has the substance and persistence to merit long-term aging. I wagered that it is the best Canon since the watershed 2015. Don’t expect me to alter that view.

Tasted blind. Quite pale; quite a simple colour. Tea-leaf aroma. Not that concentrated but nicely balanced. Very fresh – as though it’s trying to play that card! Canon? Lots on the finish. (JR)