2016 - Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cecile Tremblay

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru was the first vintage farmed with biodynamic methods, and Tremblay pruned in April to avoid frost; however, the pruning wounds bled and the sap frosted, resulting in just as much damage to the buds as if she had pruned earlier. Farming is never simple! Exhibiting aromas of wild plums, rich berries, spices, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit and a charming, giving but serious profile. Less dramatic than the fleshier, richer 2015, the 2016 is a brilliant wine in a different register.

(50% new oak): Bright red-ruby. Aromas of black fruits and espresso torrefaction show an element of reduction that Tremblay believes is due to the new oak element. Dense, sweet and sappy, conveying lovely definition and vivacity to its flavors of black raspberry, crushed rock and blood orange. At once creamy and slightly dusty, this uncompromisingly dry wine is a bit youthfully disjointed today but boasts terrific energy. Finishes very long, with refined tannins.

50% new oak. Barrel sample. Dark crimson. Very powerful perfume. Very seductive indeed. Heady and dramatic with marked acidity. Medium bodied with maximum drama! Edgy but it should get there in the end. Very long. Just slightly drying on the end. (JR)