2016 - Volnay 1er Cru Carelles, Jean-Marc Bouley

(these 18-year-old vines were hit hard by frost): Healthy medium red. More aromatic than the Caillerets, offering warmer, more demonstrative scents and flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, smoke and subtle spices. A spicy, inviting, fine-grained wine from a sunny spot protected from wind, with the iron element in the soil providing volume. This mellow premier cru boasts a seductive sweetness (and 13.6% natural alcohol). Finishes with nicely integrated, horizontal tannins and lovely length. Bouley refers to this vineyard as his baby (he was actually 14 years old when these vines were planted), noting that the site has all the elements to make great, unctuous, red-soil wine.

Some intensity and interesting smudginess – recalls a boudoir somehow. Lots of fruit and more subtle ingredients hurtling around on the palate. (JR)