2017 - Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Auslese, Keller

More than three-quarters of the fruit for this Auslese was healthy, reported Keller. Scents of quince jelly and white raisin anticipate the rich concentration delivered in a subtly oily mouthful of fruit. As with the corresponding Spätlese, welcome tangy brightness emerges, here in the form of fresh white currant and lime, whose seeds and zest team up for a striking tactile sense of innervation. In its intensity and sheer persistence, the finish reflects this wine’s almost implosive overall sense of concentration, though for now at least, it misses the sheer juiciness, vibrancy or sense of mineral suffusion delivered by the corresponding Spätlese.