2018 - Durfort-Vivens, Margaux

A particularly dramatic vintage at Durfort Vivens after mildew issues early in the season, it lacks some of the juice of 2016 and 2017, with fig and spiced dried fruit balanced by huge concentration and length, and a delicious saline oyster shell character. 70% new oak, with winemaking entirely in amphora. Léopold Valentin technical director. A tiny 5hl/ha yield, entirely made in amphoras, and entirely by hand at every step of the way,

The 2018 Durfort-Vivens is the vintage where the wine was fermented in clay jars and matured in 70% new barrels and 30% in jar. It has a pure bouquet with dark cherries, blueberry and hints of lavender. This blossoms with aeration. The palate is ripe, sensual, fleshy and well-defined, tightening toward the finish. A little chewiness on the finish, but there is fine persistence. Just 6,000 bottles were produced. Tasted at the château.

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Vinified in amphora then aged 18 months in new oak barrel (70%) and amphora (30%). Downy mildew reduced the yield to only 7 hl/ha. Organic and biodynamic (Demeter) certification.Dark crimson hue. Rich but lifted with lovely purity of fruit. Round, suave and gourmand on the palate but, again, pure, long and fresh. Impressive concentration. Loads of energy and drive. Peacock’s-tail finish. Promises well. (JL)