2018 - Durfort-Vivens, Margaux

Another unusual 2018 that is worth adding to your collection, because if you love wines with a sense of place, there is an added sense of appreciation that each one tells the story of a particular vintage. Just so concentrated, reflective of its tiny yield that barely strayed past 10hl/h (due to mildew, as with the also-biodynamic Ch Palmer in the same vintage). The tannins, although dense, are silky and supple, and the blackberry and fig fruits keep a sense of elasticity and juice. 100% fermented in amphoras, with 70% of the wine moved into new oak barrels after malolactic fermentation for ageing, the other 30% staying in the amphorae. Only available to buy in cases of 3 bottles because there were only 6,000 bottles in total. If you are able to find, set it aside for a few years, and then revel in its pleasures. Winemaker Léopold Valentin, alongside owner Gonzague Lurton.

The 2018 Durfort-Vivens is the vintage where the wine was fermented in clay jars and matured in 70% new barrels and 30% in jar. It has a pure bouquet with dark cherries, blueberry and hints of lavender. This blossoms with aeration. The palate is ripe, sensual, fleshy and well-defined, tightening toward the finish. A little chewiness on the finish, but there is fine persistence. Just 6,000 bottles were produced. Tasted at the château.