2018 - Durfort-Vivens, Margaux

Another unusual 2018 that is worth adding to your collection, because if you love wines with a sense of place, there is an added sense of appreciation that each one tells the story of a particular vintage. Just so concentrated, reflective of its tiny yield that barely strayed past 10hl/h (due to mildew, as with the also-biodynamic Ch Palmer in the same vintage). The tannins, although dense, are silky and supple, and the blackberry and fig fruits keep a sense of elasticity and juice. 100% fermented in amphoras, with 70% of the wine moved into new oak barrels after malolactic fermentation for ageing, the other 30% staying in the amphorae. Only available to buy in cases of 3 bottles because there were only 6,000 bottles in total. If you are able to find, set it aside for a few years, and then revel in its pleasures. Winemaker Léopold Valentin, alongside owner Gonzague Lurton.

The 2018 Durfort-Vivens is the vintage where the wine was fermented in clay jars and matured in 70% new barrels and 30% in jar. It has a pure bouquet with dark cherries, blueberry and hints of lavender. This blossoms with aeration. The palate is ripe, sensual, fleshy and well-defined, tightening toward the finish. A little chewiness on the finish, but there is fine persistence. Just 6,000 bottles were produced. Tasted at the château.

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Vinified in amphora then aged 18 months in new oak barrel (70%) and amphora (30%). Downy mildew reduced the yield to only 7 hl/ha. Organic and biodynamic (Demeter) certification.Dark crimson hue. Rich but lifted with lovely purity of fruit. Round, suave and gourmand on the palate but, again, pure, long and fresh. Impressive concentration. Loads of energy and drive. Peacock’s-tail finish. Promises well. (JL)