2017 - Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnieres, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières—which, like the higher appellations, had been racked and returned to barrel when I tasted it—is showing very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, fresh peach, nutmeg and mandarin oil. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with good depth and weight at the core, tangy balancing acids and a mouthwatering finish. It's an attractively complete Chassagne from a parcel Colin owns that's located below Bâtard-Montrachet.

Inviting yellow-green color. Fully ripe aromas of peach syrup, lemon drop and white pepper. Quite concentrated, thick and rich, with its flavors of grapefruit pith and lemon zest lifted by a subtle spicy quality. Boasts an edge-free texture like liquid satin and yet there's no impression of undue weight. Finishing with echoing length, this should make a superb village wine. Incidentally, this wine and the following samples are aging entirely in 350-liter barrels, except for the Meursault Les Genevrières and Chevalier-Montrachet, of which Colin has just a single 228-liter barrique.

Vines 85 years old. Deep soils just below Bâtard. Racked and back to barrel in August. Will spend several months in tank before bottling in May.Delicate nose, almost a touch of blossom here. Lemon cream, refined. Extreme tension, just softened by the texture. Less intensity than the En Remilly but equally great length. Fine, pure tight electric finish. Very very tight and needs time to relax. (JH)