2017 - Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

(Colin's vines are located just across the road from his Charmes and a bit closer to the village of Meursault): Bright, pale yellow-green. Wonderfully delicate aromas of underripe pineapple, white peach, flowers, spices and crushed rock. Denser than Colin's other Meursault premier crus but its uncanny thickness is fully buffered by dusty, palate-staining minerality. This very pure wine shows the penetrating energy of a tungsten filament. Consistent from start to endless finish. There's still an impression of sweetness here as the wine has two grams per liter of residual sugar, but Colin suspects that one of his three 350-liter barrels has not yet completely finished its sugar fermentation.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is strongly marked by its terroir, offering up a crisp bouquet of lemon oil, tart green apple, crushed chalk, iodine and subtle spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, taut and tensile with tangy acids and a pronouncedly chalky, mineral quality.

Lower reaches of the vineyard. Racked and back to barrel in August. Will spend several months in tank before bottling in May.More immediate tension and stony/mineral character than the Charmes. Chewy texture and depth of fruit without extreme fruitiness. Tight limey citrus. Really pulled in on the palate so it is more impressive in length than breadth. Huge pent-up energy. Wait. Embryonically wonderful. (JH)