2016 - Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes, Hubert Lignier

The 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes, which comes from vines planted as far back as the 1930s, suffered a lot of millerandage so that the yields was 25 hectoliters per hectare. It is matured one-third new oak and one-third whole bunch fruit. It has an introspective bouquet at first and then gradually unfolds to reveal enticing blackberry, briary and cold stone scents—all very sophisticated and poised. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, a disarming sense of symmetry and tension that impart weightlessness that run paradoxically to the intensity of fruit. This is just a magnificent Morey-Saint-Denis. Top of the class in grand cru territory.

Les Faconnières and Les Chenevery, just at the bottom of Clos de la Roche, two-thirds of a hectare, planted between 1936 and 1952. Massal selection. Just 20-25 hl/ha. 33% new oak. Emblematic wine of the domaine. Dark purplish crimson. Very rich and gamey on the nose. Very dense and extremely serious. Easy to see that it’s close to Clos de la Roche (but they acknowledge there are fewer taxes to pay on a premier cru than a grand cru). Very serious. Massive structure. Very ambitious. Bravo! (JR)