2016 - Hermitage, M. Sorrel

From barrel, the 2016 Hermitage is impressive. Produced from yields of only 20 hectoliters per hectare, it’s more concentrated than normal, showing intense dark fruit and firm tannins.

Inky ruby. Ripe black currant, cherry liqueur, licorice and olive on the deeply perfumed nose, along with cracked pepper and floral nuances that gain strength as the wine stretches out. Weighty and broad in the mouth, offering densely packed, spice-tinged black and blue fruit liqueur flavors and hints of candied flowers and bitter chocolate. In a distinctly rich style, showing strong closing thrust, steadily building tannins and resonating licorice and floral qualities.

Full bottle a modest 1,275 g. Apparently yields in 2016 were barely half those in 2015. The cuvée known as Classique though it's not on the label. Transparent garnet with a clear rim. Gorgeous richness and firmness yet this is eminently drinkable even with tonight's roast duck. Tannins are evident only on the very end – and will presumably fade into the background once paired with fatty duck. Great balance and rigour with a light dustiness on the finish but very pure fruit. Integrity, sweet and salt – what's not to like? Though much more accessible than some Hermitages. (JR)